Fireworks and feathers as Daniella Helayel's Issa label keeps it curvy

Designer Daniella Issa Helayel with her models after the show of her collection Issa, as part of London fashion week. 

Issa designer Daniella Helayel has been in the international fashion spotlight ever since Kate Middleton chose to wear one of her draped dresses for the announcement of her engagement to Prince William in November. Yesterday's show – called Celebration – was the first new work shown by the designer since last year's big publicity boost, and Helayel didn't disappoint.

The Brazilian-born designer says her clothes are for real women who are, like herself, "full of curves". Voluptuous fans will be pleased with the variations on the classic flattering Issa dresses lined up for autumn/winter 2011, though this season's version was shorter than normal.

Issa also used a diverse range of models for the show, from curvy Dutch model Doutzen Kroes to 46-year-old Yasmin Le Bon. Helayel's friend Andrea Dellal closed the show in a floor-length, plunge-neck red jersey dress. Dellal was a famous model in the 1960s and is the mother of model Alice Dellal and fashion designer Charlotte Dellal.

Helayel is known for her vibrant prints and this season's most eye-catching included a firework design incorporating elements of her best-known prints. The other main motif was the pheasant feather, seen on skirts, kaftans and in pillbox hats.

More Issa designs can be seen in the forthcoming film about Wallis Simpson, W.E., the latest directorial effort by Madonna. The singer asked Helayel to create some dresses for the film as she's such a fan of the Issa label.

It was easy to imagine Simpson – or indeed Kate Middleton – in some of this season's eveningwear, such as a deep V-necked beaded chiffon gown, a jersey-silk halterneck dress and a floor-length raspberry coloured gown with a side split.

Issa clothes are not only being seen on normal-sized bottoms and hips but are also relatively affordable, with dresses starting at around £300. Her work may not push the boundaries of fashion, but it's pleasing to see clothes for real women getting such attention.

London fashion week continues with shows by Matthew Williamson and Vivienne Westwood Red Label.

Posted in: kate middleton